PROVIDENCE – To nosh means to eat food enthusiastically. That definition certainly proved true on Oct. 26, at Temple Beth-El’s “World Series of Jewish Noshes” event. Held for the fourth consecutive year with a different theme each time, the “World Series” event raised $7,500 for the synagogue’s Religious School Scholarship Fund. Deb Norman, owner of Rue de L’Espoir, Anita Solomon, lifelong member of Temple Beth-El, and Josh Willey, owner of The Pizza Gourmet, comprised the panel of judges. While they were able to taste many delicious dishes, selecting the champions of the evening was no easy task as the 20 or so candidates for the title outdid themselves, according to the attendees.
The predominant theme was tradition. The choices illustrated that we, as a people, really do define ourselves by our food. So, who are we, then? In short, we’re hungry, and we like no-nonsense nibbles. No fancy hors d’oeuvres here. Just hearty fare, some options healthier than others.
Laura Levinson decided to go with an oldie but a goodie. Her Salmon Party Log appetizer had been in the family for nearly 30 years. Levinson vouches for the success of the recipe, which was passed down to her from her late sister, Marcia, “We bring it to parties, gatherings, staff appreciation lunches.”
Similarly, Mark Schneider went with a mishpachah favorite – his grandmother’s chopped liver made in her bowl using his great-grandmother’s chopper. Unlike Levinson, who modified the original recipe by adding almond scales to the fish-shaped nosh, Schneider eschewed garnishes and stuck with the tried-but-true version that included such ingredients as chicken fat.
Many of the offerings were so traditional that they looked like they came from an old-fashioned Jewish deli. Brendan Weiner, the youngest contestant (at 10 years old), prepared two kinds of Home Run Pickles – Classic Dill and Bread and Butter. A student at Rocky Hill School in East Greenwich, he said he’ll probably become a chef. Considering the fact that Weiner was the people’s choice Second Runner Up, he has a solid chance of making that plan come true.
The attendees must have been longing for comfort foods because Ruby Shalansky’s Gravlax and Bob Sandy’s Poppy Seed Bagels with Corned Beef and Chopped Liver were popular, grabbing the judges’ First Runner Up and Second Runner Up prizes, respectively. Sandy explained that his wife Elaine’s trips to New York City’s delis, along with his experience working in various bakeries as a teenager, inspired the dish.
Some contestants felt altogether daring. John Catania and David Yopak, longtime friends, offered a spinoff on a standard recipe. They decided to use the Mohn Hamantaschen Poppy Seed Mix in bars instead. The result proved the risk paid off. Describing the reaction to their dessert, the two gushed, “They love it! They come back for more. It’s been a hit!” In fact, the bars looked so great that Catania didn’t mind cheating on the Paleo diet to taste the finished product.
Susan Dressler also presented a variation of the usual recipe. Her mother, Roslin Markoff, distributed not just any old blintzes, but Cupcake Blintzes with Blueberry Sauce. Dressler made them according to Markoff’s recipe. The latter shared that, during Thanksgiving, the family comes for these treats more than for the turkey.
A number of recipes were satisfying in their simplicity yet draining in their call for commitment. For instance, Michael Chazan, people’s choice First Runner Up, made his grandmother’s Potato Latkes the hard way. He ground enough potatoes for about 150 pieces by hand. Even though the process was demanding, the end result was worth the effort. The technique he used resulted in a smoother texture, he believes, ultimately impressing the judges.
Adrienne Uffer’s dish, Smoked Salmon Deviled Eggs, also called for some dedication. While the recipe was not complicated, she said, it was time-consuming. Uffer joked, “The worst part is peeling the eggs!”
A couple of contestants chose to underscore the unfussy nature of their dish with their presentation. Paula Bodo and Karen Borger, the duo that won the judges’ first prize, displayed lentils, onions and walnuts – the ingredients for their Vegan Chopped Liver – on a gorgeous hand-painted board, next to some freshly cut chives. The nibbles themselves were standing in rows on wooden platforms. This seemingly effortless dish had a flavor that was complicated enough to wow the harshest critics. The best part? It can accommodate all of your guests, some of whom probably steer clear of meat.
Nancy Kirsch’s setup also drew attention. The stand’s signs recalled a past Wendy’s commercial. One read, “Where’s the beef,” while the other declared, “Here’s the beef,” with an arrow next to it. Kirsch used her neighbor’s recipe as inspiration for Sandra’s Spicy Meatballs, which she created with beef, veal, lamb and matzo meal, along with some spices and sauces. She said the dish can work as an appetizer as well as an entrée, served with rice, pasta or potatoes.
While most of the dishes were familiar to the crowd, some choices beckoned with international flavor. Matt Goodman’s Borekas with Cheese Filling, a Turkish dish that’s also beloved by Israeli street vendors, went really well with Wendy Joering and Rhonda White’s Egg Creams. Because both delicacies are so portable, one could walk around eating and humming Lou Reed’s “You scream; I steam; we all want Egg Cream.”
Faye Stolzman also knows something about combining unexpected new flavors with a Jewish staple. She offered Curried Cheese with Mango Chutney, a dish that boasted Indian spices, such as turmeric, cumin and curry, along with our authentic cream cheese, the glue that held everything together. Stolzman said she stumbled onto the notion while eating really hot food at a restaurant and finding relief in sour cream that cooled her palate.
The evening also reflected our inclination to watch our figures and avoid creamy and cheesy foods that have a tendency to end up on our plates. Many dishes managed to maintain taste and flavor despite their healthy aspect. For instance, Emily Shalansky’s recipe for her mother’s Eggplant Dip was so great that her slightly partial husband, Steven Shalansky, declared, “This is the best eggplant dip I’ve ever had in my life!” Likewise, Kim Zwetchkenbaum’s Hummus was a huge hit with the attendees, who voted it people’s choice winner.
Sara Dorsch brought a Spinach Souffle that betrayed not only a Latin American touch with queso fresco, but also nutritious Sephardic cooking influences. Barbara Barry and Roberta Shapiro also presented a healthy vegetarian option, Mushroom Mock Chopped Liver. They believe that their version tastes better than the original. The two friends made it for Passover and noticed that the guests were more enthusiastic about this cashew, onion, mushroom and egg “liver” than about the real thing that was served next to it.
All in all, the evening was a tremendous success. A number of politicians, including David Cicilline, Jorge Elorza, Brett Smiley, Catherine Taylor, Jack Reed and Aaron Regunberg, sampled the noshes. About 200 attendees went home not only with full stomachs, but also full of recipe ideas. Want some inspiration yourself? Check out our food page for recipes from the event!
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